I first visited Mackinac Island as a teenager during a family vacation on Michigan’s mainland. A day trip to the island was on the itinerary, so we took the 25-minute ferry from Mackinaw City (both Mackinac and Mackinaw are pronounced the same: MACK-IN-AWE, but spelled differently). We spent the day riding tandem bikes, indulging in fudge from one of the island’s famous shops, and hiking up to the iconic [Grand Hotel](https://www.grandhotel.com/). Sitting on the hotel’s porch with a drink in hand, I remember thinking, *I’d love to stay here one day.* Last month, I finally got the chance.
My college best friend and I decided to take a trip to Mackinac Island. We met at Detroit airport and flew to Pellston, Michigan. Since cars aren’t allowed on the island, many hotels offer luggage transfer services, so we entrusted our bags to the handlers. They ensured our luggage made it from the ferry to the hotel and eventually to our room, though the process took about three hours. As someone who prefers to keep an eye on my bags, this was a bit nerve-wracking, but the staff are seasoned pros who handle this daily throughout the May-to-October season.
Another charming quirk of Mackinac Island’s car-free environment is the horse-drawn carriages. After stepping off the ferry, we hopped onto one that took us to the Grand Hotel. Though it’s only a 10-minute walk from the dock, the carriage ride was a delightful way to approach the hotel, with its iconic porch and yellow awnings coming into view — a sight that’s remained largely unchanged since 1887.
### A Brief History of “America’s Summer Place”
Mackinac Island began attracting visitors in 1886, but accommodations were scarce. The land for the Grand Hotel was purchased that year, and by 1887, the retreat was open to guests. The speed of its construction is impressive.
“Charles Caskey, our builder, had to hire 600 workers,” Grand Hotel General Manager David Jurcak explained during our chat. “They worked 24 hours a day, and he paid double time. But many couldn’t read a ruler or swing a hammer, so he said, ‘If you want it done in 90 days, you’ll have to accept it as is. It might be a little off, but it’ll stand the test of time.’ And it has — for 137 years.”
Indeed, some parts of the hotel, like the molding in the Parlor or the slightly slanted second-floor hallway, aren’t perfectly aligned. But these imperfections add character, especially when so many other aspects of the hotel are flawless.
### A Maximalist’s Dream
One of the coolest things about the Grand Hotel is that no two guest rooms are alike. Each room is a maximalist’s dream, featuring bold colors and patterns — from striped wallpaper to floral drapes, jewel-tone velvet armchairs, and ornate antique lamps. Our room had a newly renovated bathroom, plenty of space for two, and a view of the lake and the porch below. Every evening, live music from the cocktail hour drifted up to our windows, adding to the ambiance.
The rest of the property is equally vibrant. The Parlor is filled with reds and greens, and the carpeting is printed with the hotel’s signature flower, the geranium. The Jockey Club, with its wood-paneled walls and plaid carpet, evokes an English hunting lodge. My favorite, though, was the main dining room, with its mirrored columns, green and white striped chairs, and warm orange and yellow floral textiles.
### Hotel Food, But Make It Grand
Most guests book their stay with a Modified American Meal plan, which includes breakfast and dinner. Breakfast is served in the main dining room, with a buffet on weekends, and there are three dinner options: the main dining room, the Jockey Club, and the more casual Gate House.
Dinner in the main dining room is a five-course affair, perfectly executed. I particularly enjoyed the chicken consommé with mini matzah balls and the quinoa-crusted lake trout with orange butter. The Jockey Club offers wood-fired dishes, and the lamb meatballs and steak frites were excellent. Although we didn’t dine at the Gate House, we stopped by for a nightcap and enjoyed the live music.
A standout dining experience was at Woods Restaurant, which isn’t part of the meal plan but is well worth a visit. Styled like a Bavarian hunting lodge, complete with taxidermy and antler chandeliers, the food was just as impressive as the décor. The bone marrow and Wagyu beef tartare were perfect starters, and the herb-crusted elk rack was a divine main course. The adjacent Bobby’s Bar even has a duckpin bowling alley.
### Once a Party, Always a Party
Grand Hotel has a storied history of fun, even during Prohibition. “We had nine major raids,” Jurcak told us. “But each time, we called the raid ourselves. If business was slow, we’d call in a raid, and the press in Chicago, Detroit, and Cleveland would report, ‘There’s gambling and booze at Grand Hotel, and they got busted.’ Suddenly, everyone wanted to come to Grand Hotel!”
That lively spirit is still alive today. Guests sip cocktails on the porch — the longest in the world at 660 feet — and on weekend mornings, a cocktail cart in the Parlor serves Bloody Marys and Mimosas. The Audubon Bar is perfect for whiskey lovers, and every night at 9:30 p.m., the house band gets the party started in the Terrace Room. My personal favorite, though, was the Cupola Bar on the fourth floor, offering stunning lake views during the day and live piano music in the evening.
### Things to Do, Both On and Off the Grounds
My friend and I love a good pool day, so we booked a cabana by the adults-only pool. The weather was perfect, and we even took a few turns on the water slide. We also tried our hand at the mini-golf course, which is much harder than it looks. The hotel offers lawn games and bike rentals, and we found a lovely secret garden on the property — a peaceful spot to relax.
Of course, Mackinac Island offers more than just the Grand Hotel. The island is famous for its fudge, and [Ryba’s](https://ryba.com/) is a must-visit. We also enjoyed wings and football at [Mary’s Bistro Draught House](https://mackinacmarys.com/), and before catching the ferry back, we had a delicious lunch at [Kingston Kitchen](https://www.kingstonkitchen.com/), a Jamaican restaurant with a lively front porch. Although we didn’t make it to the iconic [Pink Pony](https://www.pinkponymackinac.com/), it’s definitely worth a visit. The island is full of charming souvenir shops and beautiful architecture to explore.
### Preserving History
The Grand Hotel closes for the season on October 30, but it will reopen next May, just as it has for 138 seasons. Some rooms may get a facelift, and the winter staff will perform maintenance, but the hotel’s commitment to preserving its history remains steadfast.
“There’s an important balance when maintaining a historic hotel,” Jurcak explained. “If we were to overhaul a room completely, we’d erase someone’s history. Generations of families have stayed here, and they have photos of their kids — or themselves as kids — in this very Parlor. If we strip that away, we eliminate the history of that moment. And there’s no way to recreate it.”
So, while the Grand Hotel may evolve, its essence — and its history — will always remain intact.
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Source: insidehook.com